Loose threads

Various sewing projects. Mostly historical (or historically inspired) stuff. Varying levels of ambition!

Challenge 2021:12 All the world's a stage: A Dowton Abbeyesque skirt

Kategori: Allmänt, Historic Sew Montly 21, Victorian, edwardian

I won't be able to do all the challenges 2021 either, but in this sudden but inevitable burst of sewing frenzy that a deadline or two is bound to induce I might do more than I thought I would! That we are "allowed" to mix up the order helps a lot when syncing challenges to deadlines!
 
Challenge number 12 is "All the world's a stage". Fiction is sort of always an underlying theme of my sewing, since I do a lot of what I do because of larping, so that's almost a given. It's even more pronounced, however, when my next larp (hopefully, one never knows - the pandemic is not over yet) is one inspired by Downton Abbey. Or not exacly Downton Abbey, but that genre. A few years back I went to a big larp set in a big country house with all the Upstairs Downstairs features, had great fun and met great people. Some of them are now organising a pocket sized larp on the same theme much closer to where I live. I am looking forward to it, even if my larp skills feel really rusty after a two-year hiatus.
 
I have played a lot of early 20th century larps, and by now one would think that I could basically just pick out an outfit from my wardrobe. I have played both downstairs and upstairs. Sadly, neither the housekeeper outfit or my upstairs ones is really suited to play a lady's maid. I therefore decided to go for as basic a "black servant outfit" as possible. After a lot of frustrated googling and decision making later (there are sooo many extant Edwardian dresses out there. So very few of them look like they could have been worn by servants. And black and white photos of black dresses are only so helpful in guessing at construction), the fabric helped me come to a decision. The larp is in late autumn/early winter, we are to spend some time outside and (good) black cotton is impossible to find anyway, it seems. So wool it was, and the only wool(!) I could find that was not in the very high price range was only available as an end of roll piece of about 2.1 meters. Bye, bye to plans of a dress - skirt and blouse it is.

Short of time as usual, and my reference book has hidden somewhere, so rather than construct something from scratch I worked with what I have got. The larp is set in 1910, but I assume a servant's dress doesn't have to be exactly up to date, and to make my wardrobe as useful as possible I decided that I'd rather be a bit fuzzy on the dating details, here. 
 
Street photography by Edward Linley Sambourne, 1905-08 somewhere. The skirt to the viewer's right is worn by someone not of schoolgirl age but not very matronly either, and noone in the photo is very posh. Key features: the skirt is fairly long, most of (but not all) of the skirt width is gathered in the back, waistline at natural waist. I do love the raised waists of the 1910's, but that's far too fashionable for this project. 
 
To save myself hours and hours of guessing and pattern construction, I decided that one of the 1890's skirts in The Victorian Dressmaker would do nicely. A tad bit early for 1910, but not implausible. The general look is not too off.
 
This is how I roll, very... eh, exact and all that. For a slightly more gathered back look I decided to go with the front panels of the underskirt in this example, and the back panel from the overskirt.
 
Yes, I drew directly on the back side of the fabric. No, I didn't make a toile first. The attentive reader might notice that the side panel (viewer's bottom left) is off. I did see this and correct it before I cut the fabric. The waistband and plackets were cut out from the leftover pieces later. Whining: I do wish I would get straight cut edges when ordering a piece of fabric. Just once.
 
Skirt, front and back views.
 
When re-pinning the skirt to the waistband for the umpteenth time, I had a tiny blackout and turned the front pleats (which are technically darts in the pattern, but I couldn't make them look nice as darts) the wrong way round. I will maybe fix that later when I am not working against a super tight deadline. The back is knife pleated with the center back pleats overlapping - both to get a more fan-skirty look and because I forgot that the basic patterns in The Victorian Dressmaker are slightly larger than my size.

One thing I always long for in any wear, especially larp wear, is pockets. So I inserted a pocket in the side front seam and am immensely proud of myself for pulling it off. Since the pocket is designeed to carry a smart phone, I attached the top of the pocket to the waist-line to keep it from pulling too much at the seam and/or destroy the drape.
 
Since I was short of fabric and for added sturdyness of the hem, I faced the bottom edge with a cotton strip.
 
Not super neat, but it will do.
 
The facts:
What the item is: A late 19th/early 20th century skirt
How it fits the challenge: It's for an event inspired by Downton Abbey
Material: Wool/polyester blend (meh for the polyester part, but beggars, choosers...)
Pattern: Slightly adapted from the Victorian Dressmaker
Year: 1895-1905ish
Notions: Polyester thread, cotton sheeting
How historically accurate is it? I trust the Victorian Dressmaker, but deduction for the material (polyester blend) and my mistakes. 75%?
Hours to complete: About 25. It's mostly machine sewn, apart from attaching the upper part of the guard and attaching the backside of the waistband.
First worn: Not yet. Will be worn in late November if everything goes according to plan.
Total cost: About 70 euros. Most of it was the skirt fabric.