Partlet
Kategori: , Allmänt
After a lazy summer, where I didn't sew much (partly to let my grumpy thumb-joint rest a bit), I'm sort of back on track. For challenge #15 (I skipped 14 as paisley and plaid didn't fit anything I wanted to make, and not my stash for a random in-between project either) I thought for quite a while before I decided on trying to make that partlet I've been talking about forever. I always miss a partlet at outdoor events in autumn, just the shift around the neck is not really enough. Fabric present in stash, pattern in Tudor tailor, what could possibly go wrong?
The fabrics: Black polyester velvet and a choice of camel cashmere wool or navy wool. In the end I opted for contrast and went with the camel coloured.
The construction: This is how I normally do. I measure at a thousand places on the scaled-down patterns in Tudor Tailor, construct geometric shapes to build the basic shape. then use eye measure to get it the details and curves of the patterns "somewhat right" on a piece of scrap fabric.
This time I had to scale it down a size or so and I managed to do it without having to remake the entire pattern as can be seen by the pinned folds in the bottom picture.
The finished pattern, redrawn on leftover Christmas wrapping paper, on the lining fabric. I managed to use the small scrap as well. Had it been just a liiiitle bigger I might have managed to save the entire larger part, but alas. I think the leftovers are enough to be used for something useful later. It's a lovely fabric.
I forgot to take pictures, but then I cut all pieces in top fabric and lining, did the shoulder seams, pressed and pinned the two parts together. Looots of pinning and repinning, since I never learn to cut pieces exactly the same twice. And synthetic velvet is a pain. Really.
Basting. A very good tip to make the velvet behave _somewhat_ at least. It was also quite late at night at this point.
The back of the finished partlet. Here the issues of the unpressable velvet is most obvious. It turned out a lot better than I feared when pinning, but still. When I saw how the cashmere behaved I could only imagine how well it would have come out with wool for both lining and outer fabric. Wool <3
The front looks kind of nice, though. Need to re-do the hook and eye-closure for it to close a bit better. Possibly adding another pair half an inch above the first to get a bit better fit, too.
Side view. Velvet issue visible in the shoulder seam. Serves me right for using synthetic fabric.
The Challenge: Nr 15, The Great Outdoors
Fabric: Polyester velvet with cashmere lining.
Pattern: from Tudor Tailor
Year: 1500s
Notions: Sateen ribbon, 1 metre, polyester thread
How historically accurate is it? 50% perhaps. Materials - nah, not really. Machine sewn.
Hours to complete: Perhaps eight, including fixing the pattern.
First worn: Not yet. Probably september.
Total cost: 0,5m polyester velvet, about 125 SEK, 0,5 m cashmere from a clearance sale, about 30 SEK, ribbons perhaps 15 SEK. Total cost about 170 SEK or about 17 euros/$30 something.
Fabric: Polyester velvet with cashmere lining.
Pattern: from Tudor Tailor
Year: 1500s
Notions: Sateen ribbon, 1 metre, polyester thread
How historically accurate is it? 50% perhaps. Materials - nah, not really. Machine sewn.
Hours to complete: Perhaps eight, including fixing the pattern.
First worn: Not yet. Probably september.
Total cost: 0,5m polyester velvet, about 125 SEK, 0,5 m cashmere from a clearance sale, about 30 SEK, ribbons perhaps 15 SEK. Total cost about 170 SEK or about 17 euros/$30 something.
