Loose threads

Various sewing projects. Mostly historical (or historically inspired) stuff. Varying levels of ambition!

Challenge 2016:7 - Monochrome

Kategori: Allmänt, Historic Sew Monthly 16

Running awfully late with the challenges, and even later with the blog posts. As I still haven't done all challenges, I will update in the order of garments, rather than in the challenge order - if I don't know, it will become confused anyway if I am able to go back and finish some more before the end of the year..
First out, therefore: challenge 7, monochrome. And as I'm not terribly inventive, monochrome = white = underwear and the like. This time, I needed (I know, "needed") a pair of reasonably period drawers. I say reasonably period, because as far as I gather, there's little evidence of them being common in the 16th century - but there are examples in pictures, extant garments and accounts from both Venice (mostly coutesans) and from mainland Italy. And I needed them for shift-related reasons, so googling I went.
I found several. Many of them more elaborate than you'd think - even if I think the "sexy underwear" factor needs a rather trained period eye to manifest itself.
Like this gorgeous pair with ties in the end of the legs, a button for the waistband and blue-work all over. From Venice, second half of 15th century, and the beauty of preserved garments is the measurements: The waist is 78 cm and the length of the leg is 68 cm.


Or this, with open crotch in front (or back, there's discussion on the subject, though I think I'd like to think that 'front' is correct) from about 1600. Again, a "fitted" waistband, with holes for ties if I see correctly.

Since I (as per usual) as a bit short of time, I found that the Patterns of fasion pattern was closer to the second pair and since both was equally (un)flattering I decided to go with those. The pattern was simple enough, one piece per leg and wedges for the crotch area.
To piece the crotch gusset seems a bit odd, since a seam kind of destroys the stretch - but so far it seems to work. I handstitched the whole thing, running stitch for the long seams, with occasional backstitches for strength - and then felled the the seams, which makes all the seams double and more durable. Also, I really hate zigzaged edges next to my skin. Flat-felled seams are the way forward for undergarments!
The finished drawers, everything done except the lining. As you can see, I left the front open but closed the gusset all the way up. Some kind of middle ground between the blue-worked ones and the slightly later ones.
I then added the waistband, knife-pleating the drawers to it, and added a button. The button's not terribly period, it was the one I had and since I don't have any good idea of what a period 16th century button for drawers would look like, I use this one for now.
It's not the most flattering garment I own, but it filled it's purpose for now. No fancy embroidery either. If I make a more researched pair to be used with an outfit where drawers are more documented - then maybe.
The facts:
What the item is: A pair of Venetian drawers

The Challenge: 7, Monochrome

Fabric/Materials: White linen

Pattern: Adapted from Patterns of fashion, scaled up a bit ad hoc

Year: Last part of the 16th century

Notions: Linen thread, button

How historically accurate is it?: Reasonably, there are extant examples but I combined a few and am not sure of everything I did - 90% from a distance. The linen is, as usual, not nearly "good enough".

Hours to complete: Can't remember, about 10

First worn: 7th July, 2016

Total cost: About 12 euros
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