A set of sleeves
Kategori: , Allmänt
As usual, I am late with challenge... But at least I finished.
The 17th challenge was yellow, a colour I try to steer clear of normally - not really my colour. Or at least it wasn't when my hair was lighter. Now I honestly haven't tried for quite some time. Anyways, I found a piece of pale yellow silk at a clearance sale at a price I couldn't resist. It ended up in my stash and the challenge gave me an excuse to use it.
I have wanted new sleeves for my old 15th century gamurra for ages. The gamurra is a rather sad thing in cotton, though, so I wanted sleeves that would go with other dresses as well. Originally I planned a slashed sleeve, which would have been most appropriate - but then I realised it could go well with my venetian gown if I didn't. That meant that I now planned for a set of sleeves that can work with three dresses: the red gamurra, the red Venetian and a planned new gamurra in better material than that first try from ten years ago.
The inspiration
From left to right:
Allegory of April/Triumph of Venus by Francesco del Cossa, 1476-84
Portrait of a Lady in yellow by Domenico Ghirlandaio, 1465
Giovanna Tornabuoni, by Domenic Ghirlandaio, 1489-90
Yes, the sleeves seem to either sewn on or slashed. I guess HA sleeves will be still on the list.
I found nothing about whether the sleeves are straight or curved, so I decided to be lazy and use my standard pattern, adapted from the Tudor tailor. As you can see, I used this for a slashed sleeve pattern as well but left the gaps out. Recycling ftw.
Sleeves cut and laid out to make sure I really had a right and a left sleeve. What? Of course I never make the mistake of cutting two left sleeves. Only if I'm really tired. Or stupid. Or just forget to think and double check. Or...
I forget to take pictures of the struggle to make the pattern on the first sleeve. But then I added the trim and realised that I could use the window to copy a mirrored pattern on the second sleeve.
Oh, the cleverness of me! That saved me a lot of time.
Also, I realised far too late (again, didn't think) that it's impossible to make the pattern match in both seams. I should have seen that coming, but aw well - alignment is HA, after all. Or at least I say it is (despite that this isn't pattern, it's sewn-on trim. Ssssh now!).
I used the finished pieces as pattern for the lining. The lining is plum-coloured linen and not HA at all, but it was the best I had in my stash and it won't show a lot anyway. (Can you tell I'm working on the "good enough!"-approach here?).
After that it was just the normal stuff. Lining and outer fabric, wrong sides together, pinned and hand-sewn together.
For photos, the sleeves are tied on to the Venetian one since the red gamurra needs some new holes for lacing first.
The Challenge: Yellow
Fabric: Silk outer fabric, linen lining.
Pattern: Adapted from the Tudor Tailor doublet sleeve
Year: Late 15th-early 16th century
Notions: Trim. Lots of. Polyester thread for seams, embroidery silk for holes for lacing.
How historically accurate is it? Reasonably.
Hours to complete: I guess about 25.
First worn: Not yet.
Total cost: Silk bought at final sale, 10 SEK/1 euro for the piece, half used for this project. Linen from stash, about 50 sek/5 euros or so. 13 metres of trim, about 20 euros despite reasonable price per metre. Thread bought to match trims, about 5 euros. Silk left over from earlier project. Total: about 30 euros.
Fabric: Silk outer fabric, linen lining.
Pattern: Adapted from the Tudor Tailor doublet sleeve
Year: Late 15th-early 16th century
Notions: Trim. Lots of. Polyester thread for seams, embroidery silk for holes for lacing.
How historically accurate is it? Reasonably.
Hours to complete: I guess about 25.
First worn: Not yet.
Total cost: Silk bought at final sale, 10 SEK/1 euro for the piece, half used for this project. Linen from stash, about 50 sek/5 euros or so. 13 metres of trim, about 20 euros despite reasonable price per metre. Thread bought to match trims, about 5 euros. Silk left over from earlier project. Total: about 30 euros.
