Loose threads

Various sewing projects. Mostly historical (or historically inspired) stuff. Varying levels of ambition!

A set of sleeves

Kategori: , Allmänt

As usual, I am late with challenge... But at least I finished.
The 17th challenge was yellow, a colour I try to steer clear of normally - not really my colour. Or at least it wasn't when my hair was lighter. Now I honestly haven't tried for quite some time. Anyways, I found a piece of pale yellow silk at a clearance sale at a price I couldn't resist. It ended up in my stash and the challenge gave me an excuse to use it.
I have wanted new sleeves for my old 15th century gamurra for ages. The gamurra is a rather sad thing in cotton, though, so I wanted sleeves that would go with other dresses as well. Originally I planned a slashed sleeve, which would have been most appropriate - but then I realised it could go well with my venetian gown if I didn't. That meant that I now planned for a set of sleeves that can work with three dresses: the red gamurra, the red Venetian and a planned new gamurra in better material than that first try from ten years ago.
The inspiration
From left to right:
Allegory of April/Triumph of Venus by Francesco del Cossa, 1476-84
Portrait of a Lady in yellow by Domenico Ghirlandaio, 1465
Giovanna Tornabuoni, by Domenic Ghirlandaio, 1489-90
Yes, the sleeves seem to either sewn on or slashed. I guess HA sleeves will be still on the list.

I found nothing about whether the sleeves are straight or curved, so I decided to be lazy and use my standard pattern, adapted from the Tudor tailor. As you can see, I used this for a slashed sleeve pattern as well but left the gaps out. Recycling ftw.
Sleeves cut and laid out to make sure I really had a right and a left sleeve. What? Of course I never make the mistake of cutting two left sleeves. Only if I'm really tired. Or stupid. Or just forget to think and double check. Or...
I forget to take pictures of the struggle to make the pattern on the first sleeve. But then I added the trim and realised that I could use the window to copy a mirrored pattern on the second sleeve.

Oh, the cleverness of me! That saved me a lot of time.
Also, I realised far too late (again, didn't think) that it's impossible to make the pattern match in both seams. I should have seen that coming, but aw well - alignment is HA, after all. Or at least I say it is (despite that this isn't pattern, it's sewn-on trim. Ssssh now!).
I used the finished pieces as pattern for the lining. The lining is plum-coloured linen and not HA at all, but it was the best I had in my stash and it won't show a lot anyway. (Can you tell I'm working on the "good enough!"-approach here?).
After that it was just the normal stuff. Lining and outer fabric, wrong sides together, pinned and hand-sewn together.

Aaaand as usual the sleeve is slightly too long. I guess I'll never learn. Other than that I'm quite happy with the result. Ties are just wool yarn at this point.
For photos, the sleeves are tied on to the Venetian one since the red gamurra needs some new holes for lacing first.
The Challenge: Yellow

Fabric: Silk outer fabric, linen lining.

Pattern: Adapted from the Tudor Tailor doublet sleeve

Year: Late 15th-early 16th century

Notions: Trim. Lots of. Polyester thread for seams, embroidery silk for holes for lacing.

How historically accurate is it? Reasonably.

Hours to complete: I guess about 25.

First worn: Not yet.

Total cost: Silk bought at final sale, 10 SEK/1 euro for the piece, half used for this project. Linen from stash, about 50 sek/5 euros or so. 13 metres of trim, about 20 euros despite reasonable price per metre. Thread bought to match trims, about 5 euros. Silk left over from earlier project. Total: about 30 euros.