Loose threads

This year's Historic Sew Monthly challenges differ from previous years in that there is no obligation to do them in the correct order. This is an amazing thing, since it allows me to get a well-needed push to get things done, without overly upsetting the flow of projects.

Therefore, first out is May's challenge: 

Basic: Make a garment that can be used for many occasions (like a shift, or the classic ‘Regency white dress’), or a simple accessory that will help you stretch the use of an already existing garment.

January. True to form, I have, during the second half of 2019, made plans for 2020 that includes need for a lot of sewing projects. I might have surpassed myself this time. I (deep down) knew that workload and calendar won't change. I (also not so deep down) knew that my skills have limits. And yet, what did I decide to do? Sign up for a bustle-era larp with ridiculously high costume standards, that's what I did.

Also true to form I didn't start anything during the autumn of 2019. I did order the “hardware supplies” from Vena Cava design, because Brexit (don't get me started). And then I did nothing, apart from diving deeper and deeper into the rabbit hole.

I don't even like bustle era dresses that much. More about that in a later post.

I am also extremely bad at doing things in the right order. But, alas, with bustle era garments there is really no way round it. Bustle first it has to be. For once I had acknowledged my limits and ordered premade patterns (more about that in a later post, too), and since I am of an impatient sort I a quick look at the pattern, went “how hard can it be” and started out in the fabric I had directly, instead of doing a mockup first.

The fabric was a piece of linen, which I buy in bulk and use for everything until I run out. Luckily for me, it was just enough of it to make a bustle petticoat (sans ruffled overlay, at least for now), if I economised a bit with hem length. Which, I figured, was not an issue for an underskirt. A too short petticoat is not much of an issue. A too long petticoat is a disaster. So I cut out the pattern pieces, ignored the size-related confusion (I am normally an extra small to medium sized person, this pattern clearly stated was that I was a large) and jumped.

Turns out it was the right thing to do. Some occasional confusion of the “can this really work out??” variety was calmed by my excellent online support chat, and by magic everything worked out just as intended. For a short while it looked like the hem was all wonky, but upon further inspection I learned that how hard you tie the ribbons keeping the bustle bones in place really matters, and that there is a just right amount of tension. Phew!

I am all rusty, with sewing and blogging, so of course forgot to take pictures...

The facts:

What it is: A bustle era petticoat

Challenge: 5/May: Basic. This is the basic item that will (hopefully) make my bustle outfits work!

Material: Linen

Pattern: Truly Victorian 101. I highly recommend it!

Year: 1880s

Notions: Steel boning, end caps, polyester thread, bias tape (for channels), twill tape (for ties), hooks and eyes.

How historically accurate is it: Trusting TV as I am, I'd say about 85%. Machine sewing (that might have been less of a thing for an undergarment, I think). Linen an ok option for underwear.

Time: About two days. I am short of time, so machine sewing is a thing. Hems etc done by hand, though, and it delayed the “finished” date – I currenly save up on hand sewing to bring for when I am social.

Cost: About 20 euros. Fabric about half of that, though it came out of my stash.

First worn: Not yet, except for trying it on.