Loose threads

Various sewing projects. Mostly historical (or historically inspired) stuff. Varying levels of ambition!

2024-02: Seasons of fashion

Kategori: 1920s, Allmänt, Historic Sew Montly 24, Stashbusting

At the end of this summer, I went to the larp Sunkissed Affairs, heavily inspired by the Danish TV series Badehotellet. Summer dresses, sand dunes, seaside resorts and petty plots during vacation. What's not to love? 
 
The fashion. The fashion is what I don't love.
 
You'd think that as someone with a long back and flat chest I'd love the 1920s. Alas, I do not. Or, I loved Lady Edith's magazine editor phase in Downton Abbey. I just don't love it on me, since a long back and dropped waist is a terrible combination, and the sleek lines combined with wide hips and short legs bring out every single body image issue I have - something other historical periods rarely do!
 
But needs must, and I wanted to go to the larp, so into the rabbit hole I went. 20s fashion have some redeeming factors:
  • There are quite a lot of photos from the period, so we can find comfort in that 20s fashion mostly didn't flatter 20s people either
  • There are quite a lot of either original, fascsimile or new-from-original patterns out there.
  • Suitable fabrics can, at least to some extent, be easier to find in charity shops and the like than is the case for, say, Mediaeval or Renaissance fashions.
 
I got a few patterns on e-bay, and realised that another challenging thing with 20s fashion is the deceptive simplicity of it. Don't be fooled. The simple style hides nothing. NOTHING. Where in most eras I can hide my less-than-stellar tailoring skills, this is not the case in the 20s. Precision is EVERYTHING when you have nothing to help you besides the drape of the fabric and the finish of the seams. I should have used more drape-y fabrics, but a) those fabrics were not easily found second hand, b) cost more to buy new - I was not very inclined to spend a lot of money on these projects  and c) are a pain to sew in.
 
For most of the daywear I used this  pattern with more than a few tweaks.
 
The original plans/recommendations were to make a wardrobe for normal September temperatures - that is, 10-15 degrees Celsius, with a bit of autumn winds and possibly rain. That meant that I first tried a long-sleeved version.
 
Reader, I did not like the look of this. Anything that needs to rest on my hips and have a straight cut above it is bound to make me look like a portly yet shapeless granny.
 
I tried again, departing more and more from the pattern. This is in no way intended as critisism of the pattern constructor, more of the 20s simultaneously assuming a straight silhouette and... let's say "ample endowment in the top compartment".
 
By the time I had done a sleeveless version, the weather forecast was in. +30 degrees Celsius. Excellent for pretending summer. No need whatsoever for anything long sleeved.
 
The end result was slightly, but only slightly, more flattering.
 
I like everything about this photo except how the dress fits. Yes, proper period underwear would very much have helped here, but I was short of time and committment.
 
The really greath photo is by BM Gundersen and I very much recommend that you go check him out. There are more photos, from this event and others and they are all great (look at the light, peeps!!)
 
The details:
What the item is: a 20s dress
How it fits the challenge: a summer dress
Material: plain weave cotton with satin weave stripes
Pattern: by Bright young things on Etsy, see link in blog text
Year: late 1920s
Notions: Polyester thread, some cotton lace
How historically accurate is it?: I did tweak it quite a bit, so maybe 80% or so?
Hours to complete: about 40 for two dresses. Most if spent on making the fit work tolerably!
First worn: September 2024
Total cost: both dresses made from a duvet cover bought in a charity shop. With notions that's less than 15 euros for both dresses.
 
 
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